Beat rate: 28,800 half-beats per hour,
Large balance wheel with a moment of inertia of 1.5 mg cm2 and variable inertia screws,
Balance bridge: fixed to two support points, stud held by two screws,
Protection device for limitation of the hairspring movement,
Escapement made of amagnetic silicium (Calibre 781)
See Junghans watches on Amazon here.
Junghans 17J cal67005 PUW 73 GP German Circa 1962s Ladys watch
Time Remaining: 59m
Buy It Now for only: .43
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Sindaco Lip Junghans Mens Watches
Time Remaining: 1h 32m
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JUNGHANS Silver Military German vintage mens mechanical wristwatch
Time Remaining: 1h 44m
The dial of the watch is matte black with the blue hour indicators on a layer below the dial. You see an expose synthetic ruby from the movement - that is a hallmark of many U-Boat watches. The placement of the diagonally aligned date window shows you how small the movement is in the super big case. Inside the watch is a Swiss ETA 2824-2 automatic. A solid movement perfect for a dive watch, but perhaps a bit too petite for this case (and perhaps a bit too inexpensive for a watch that is over ,000).
All this shall be made clear in good time...
Simply calling the watch a round version of the Chapter One doesn't really tell the full story. It dramatically changes the character of the Chapter One as well. I previously suggested that the Maitres du Temps Chapter One, in its highly ornate formal attire, looked as though it was destined to be in a museum where future generations could admire it. The Chapter One Round is more sporty, easier to read, and less aristocratic in poise. It is the athletic brother of the Chapter One. Maybe even a brute of brother. Like the Chapter One, the Chapter One Round is a big ol' watch. Try 59mm wide by 62mm tall on your wrist. It is 22mm thick at that. All that gold and other metal on your wrist and you'll get an arm bulky with muscle as well if you wear it around enough. That isn't to say the watch is unwearable, but if you are the type of person that whines about watches being too big or too heavy, I think a small vintage Cartier would be a better choice for you. I just had a vision of putting a small vintage Cartier next to the Chapter One Round and comparing the size and weight. Literally a shrew next to a bear. That would be amusing.
The unveiling event included the three men responsible for the content in the book. Though in reality, IWC as a whole deserves a pat on the back for getting the book done. Manfred, Paulo, and Enki are three totally different types of men, and IWC likely has some amusing stories involving the trio collaborating on the book. In fact, the event itself was the first time that the three men ever met each other. Prior to that, all the work was done remotely and via IWC as a conduit. The German, the Frenchman, and the Brazilian each added something interesting to the history book, above and beyond what IWC would have created if it was an entirely in-house effort.
No matter the result, IWC would have three big names to slap on the front of its book — which alone would have been pretty brag-worthy for them. What impresses me is that it all came together pretty well.
Minutes on second cone
See Urwerk watches on eBay here.
Bridges Barrel & gear train: all of a piece (3/4 bridge)
One of the interesting things about the new TechnoMarine watches is the refinement of the "sheath idea." Earlier TechnoMarine watches has plastic over metal cases. You could actually remove the sheath/cover and replace them with others. But it was a pain in the ass. The concept was great though, and the new watches have refined this idea. Basically, you can quickly remove the mostly silicone straps, which allows you to remove the cover over the case. Underneath is polished steel. You then have different colors (even a clear sheath) to put over the watch, and you have lots of different strap colors. In fact, each new Cruise Sport watch comes with two straps. I played with the straps and sheaths personally. I have to admit that switching them around is pretty simple.
Die Fliegeruhr 900 FLIEGER S! Der groÃŸe Fliegerchronograph! This new tool watch from German brand Sinn is a handsome looker, and saying "screw you!" (in German) to fashion watches. This pilot style watch is a compliment to similar dive chronograph watches from Sinn. Such as the U1000. While the 900 Pilot is no longer brand spanking new, the 900 Pilot S, which is in black, is new. See my previous article on the Sinn 900 Pilot watch here.
Pierre DeRoche uses an exclusive for Pierre DeRoche movement in the SplitRock watch, which is the Swiss made Dubois Depraz PDP 4001-1 automatic. It uses a micro-rotor so that you can appreciate more of the decorated movement. Lots of large blued steel screws and cotes de Geneve polish, as well as some perlage on the movement. You'll also get a friendly "Vallee de Joux" regional reminder of where the watch is made. The micro-rotor seems to work well in practice, though I think it would have looked good in gold (which might have added some weight to it that also would have helped). The appearance of the movement is rather grand, and it is a good selling point of the watch to see it when you turn over the SplitRock.
The Calibre 1509 movement is actually made in almost all 18k rose gold (something which is really rare). You can see the very nicely decorated movement in the back of the watch and through the dial. Journe does a great job at the finishing, and always makes his movements deliciously impressive to behold. The dial of the watch has a sandwiched smoked sapphire crystal. He wanted to have the the ability to see the movement through the dial, but not to take emphasis away from the time readouts. So as you can see, the movement along with the discs for the numerals can be seen through the dial, but the time display information really has your paramount attention. Can you see what I mean when I say that this is a sophisticated timepiece, but at the same time F.P. Journe pulls it off so well he makes it look easy and simple?
Black Carbon face, fine polished and satin-finished EB applique marker, shaped and polished applique indexes at 3 o'clock and 6 o'clock, Bugatti "nail" motifs, delta-shaped hands with luminous coating.
Who would want a watch like this? To my surprise, I actually would. It's not the most delicate piece, far from it. But it certainly get's noticed, it takes balls to carry it around on your wrist (and some arm strength) and it most definitely takes a man to admit your liking it. It's a bit like telly wrapped around your wrist and it certainly looks right at home on your wrist if you have pair of those old style Ray Bans on your face.
What is really cool about foudroyante watches is what I call the "crazy seconds hand." The hand in the dial that is used to measure the fraction of a second moves like mad around the dial when the chronograph is operating. So in this Zenith El Primero Foudroyante Chronograph watch, the foudroyante dial is the large centrally mounted seconds hand in the middle of the watch. It spins around the entire dial once each second making 10, very brief stops. These complications actually look really cool in action. I have no idea how they don't wear out the movement or fly off the dial. Plus, making the hand stop is really tough. Zenith has indicated that in this watch a special brake is used to ensure that it comes to an immediate halt when you stop the chronograph.
Westime Beverly Hills
Another major breakthrough IWC Replica